MONTEVIDEO, URUGUAY
The past twenty-seven hours of transit have been an exercise in anxiety suppression. After flying SFO>DFW>MIA>MVD with several delays and quick layovers, I’m relieved to be done with airports for the time being.
But I’m only in Montevideo, Uruguay, and my destination is Buenos Aires, Argentina. I’m still a bus, a boat, and a taxi away and I don’t speak any Spanish. I wander through the bus terminal, lugging all my baggage and camera gear. Enjoying a bit of culture shock, I sit amongst the crowd in rows of colorful Eames chairs. My bus should be coming soon, I think. I’m not really sure.
I’m here in South America working for travel, so to speak. My good friends Jessie & Nathaniel are getting married in Uruguay, and they offered to fly me down if I would film the wedding free of charge. Obviously I agreed, and slotted in a little extra time between flights so I could see Buenos Aires first. I just neglected to do any real research beforehand, which is making things interesting.
BUENOS AIRES, ARGENTINA
Of course, the bus, boat, and taxi journeys work out just fine. Relieved, I step into the shower of the studio I’ve rented in Buenos Aires. All that fret for no reason. My travel zen needs some work. Tranquilo, tranquilo.
Anyway, I won’t have to wander through the city alone & clueless. A friend of mine, Stuart, has been living in Buenos Aires for the past month or so. He should have the lay of the land by now. We meet for dinner, where he introduces me to his date for the wedding, a Venezuelan named Luisa. She’s a filmmaker & journalist who’s been living in the city for a few months.
Altogether, I figure the three of us should be able to put together some fun times in Buenos Aires.
This city runs on a different clock than I’m used to. Usually when I travel, I go to bed early, around 10-11PM, and wake up before sunrise. It’s a great way to see the sights devoid of tourists, in beautiful morning light. Somewhat conscious of the different schedule here, I go to bed around 1AM the first night. But apparently that’s just when people are starting to go out.
The next night, I adjust. Stuart and I meet up with a group of Luisa’s friends, a cast of characters from all over South America. One of them, a guy named Andres, doesn’t know much English, but he has two favorite phrases that he cheerfully repeats:
“I am so crazy. I love my life!”
I never get tired of hearing it. We all drink tinto de verano, try to teach each other our respective languages, and don’t leave for the bars & clubs until around 1AM. The night roars past sunrise in true Argentinian fashion.
After some much-needed sleep, I stroll to my new favorite cafe for some afternoon breakfast. Previously I’ve come to Cafe Lattente in the morning, when it’s mostly empty. But this time, around 3PM, the place is absolutely bustling and everyone seems to know each other. Hugs & cheek-kisses are a plenty. Patrons pour out onto the sidewalk and street, where a chef serves cannelloni. My coffee, an iced americano, is delicious.
Early one morning, I step into the empty streets and catch a taxi to La Recoleta Cemetery. No one else is here, except for a few cats, the janitor, and hundreds of dead people. Mausoleums tower above my head. Some of the windows are smashed, the doors broken. Spooky. It’s strange enough that there are windows to break.
Buenos Aires is fairly walkable. A few hours of strolling takes me to an outdoor market, a few parks, a cafe, and a bookstore. The famous bookstore, El Ateneo, is built like a grand opera house. It’s perfect, because all the tours of Teatro Colón, the famous theatre in town that I wanted to see, are sold out for the duration of my stay. I don’t know how good the acoustics in this bookstore are, but it’s as beautiful as any theatre I’ve seen.
From El Ateneo, I head southeast to the oldest barrio in Buenos Aires, San Telmo. It’s the place to see on Sunday afternoons in Buenos Aires, when thousands of people flock to the weekly outdoor market. There’s also an indoor market in a century-old wrought-iron building on the same street. I’m not one to buy trinkets or artisan crafts, but it’s a fantastic place for people-watching. First, I need a few quick empanadas to refuel.
Calle Defensa, the main thoroughfare in San Telmo, is packed with people as far as the eye can see. I squeeze through the crowd and end up at Plaza Dorrego, where people are gathered to watch some tango dancers perform. Their romantic display dazzles the crowd.
I spend my last afternoon in the city wandering around the parks near my studio, the Bosques de Palermo. Plenty of people are out and about, running, skating, biking, and enjoying the scenery. Resting for a moment, I stare into the shimmering man-made lake; its waves reflect the sunset.
Buenos Aires is an impressive place. I’m actually glad I came here without knowing a thing about the city, it made for good discovery. Tomorrow we wake up early to catch a boat to Uruguay.
JOSÉ IGNACIO, URUGUAY
Our destination is José Ignacio, a small town east of the popular resort city Punta Del Esta. Stuart remembers how to drive stick-shift just well enough to pilot our rental car to the little peninsula town. José Ignacio proper measures barely 6 small blocks by 7, but boasts impressive architecture, world-class restaurants, and an iconic lighthouse.
We settle into our digs for the week. Jessie & Nathaniel have assembled an eclectic group of friends and family. It seems like at all times, someone is cooking an enormous meal for the group, or fixing drinks, or organizing a walk along the beach. Camaraderie comes quickly as we explore the setting.
Finally the fateful day comes, and the seaside wedding begins. I anxiously dash around, manning two cameras and an audio recorder, triple checking that everything’s rolling, everything’s in focus. It’s a stress I’ve grown used to in my work, especially when there’s only one chance to get a shot right. Tranquilo, tranquilo.
The ceremony goes smoothly, and afterwards the wedding party makes its way to el Faro, the lighthouse, for cocktails. In previous days, clouds have masked the sunset. Tonight, the dusk sky is exuberant. Everyone is so blown away by the display, they can hardly talk about anything else. Color fills my entire field of view.
The night continues in similarly spectacular fashion until sunrise. Delicious food, heartfelt speeches, drinks, dancing, and conversation fill the hours. The dawn sky is another one for the ages, for those of us who stay up late enough to see it.
My last night in Uruguay, I walk outside for a moment before going to bed. The stars are exceptionally clear for the first time since my arrival. Excitedly, I grab my tripod and head down to the beach to take some photographs. This is my first glimpse of the southern hemisphere’s night sky, and I’m thrilled to observe stars I’ve never seen before.
After a few minutes on the beach, my eyes fully adjust to the darkness of the moonless night. I watch the waves with curiosity. Why are they so bright? The moon’s not out, the lighthouse isn’t illuminating them, why are they so clear? Suddenly, a wave erupts in bright neon blue across the black horizon. It’s upon me quickly, and before I can process what I just saw, I have to lift my tripod out of the water’s path at the last second. I save the camera but my shoes are soaked. Running away too late, I notice light in the wet sand under my feet. With every one of my steps, sparkles of neon blue flash from the ground. Finally I realize what’s going on.
Bioluminescent phytoplankton. Any sort of agitation makes them emit light. That’s why my footsteps sparkle and the waves glow blue. I watch the ocean intently, hardly believing what I’m seeing. Every few minutes, a big wave explodes with color. The Milky Way arcs over an ocean of blue fire. It’s downright psychedelic.
Watching the neon waves, I think to myself, this wraps things up nicely. Best to mentally end the trip right here and now, can’t expect any more out of it. It’s good to close the experience. Tomorrow and the next day are just going to be another thirty hours of transit hassle. This view is just too good, too much of a perfect finale. Take it in and breathe. Tranquilo, tranquilo.
Footnotes:
Massive thanks to Jessie, Nathaniel, and their families for making this trip possible.