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Ephemeral pockets of gold in California's high country

FALL SIERRA

Scott Oller October 20, 2017

OCTOBER 13, 2017

Smoke fills the city, and Friday afternoon drags along. I sit at my desk, daydreaming, deciding if I should take an impromptu trip to the mountains. The answer is yes. It should always be yes.

Hours later I set off for the Sierra.

OCTOBER 14, 2017

There's no traffic, but the time between midnight and 4am passes slowly on Highway 120. Saturday I wake up in a another world. The air is crisp.

OCTOBER 14, 2017

I'm just outside the eastern entrance to Yosemite, camping near Lee Vining. I only got two hours of sleep last night, so I need to get my blood flowing. I head down to the south tufa area of Mono Lake for sunrise, then take a hike around the rim of Panem Crater, a volcanic cone.

From the top of the crater, I see patches of orange in several of the mountain valleys to the west. I hop in the car and speed towards the nearest one, eager to see the fall colors up close.

That's the main reason I came to the Sierra this weekend. I read reports online that Mono County should be full of color for the next few days. The reports were right.

I spend all day driving from lake to lake, canyon to canyon, hiking here and there. In some stretches, I can't drive more than two hundred feet without pulling over again to take more more pictures. It's that good.

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San Francisco doesn't get much color in the fall. Even where I grew up in the East Bay, there were just a few colorful trees sprinkled throughout the neighborhoods.

Nothing prepared me for the immersive feeling of standing in a grove of aspen in autumn.

OCTOBER 15, 2017

The cold wakes me up around 4AM, which seems like a good time to start the drive to Yosemite Valley anyway. I blast music to stay sharp on the dark drive through Tuolumne. The sky is purple when I pull into the Tunnel View parking lot just before sunrise.

I guess I can't escape smoky air this weekend. A nearby fire has filled the valley with smoke. The air quality is awful, but the hazy valley looks surreal.

There's color in Yosemite as well. Big leaf maple, dogwood, ferns, and other plants dot the granite & green landscape with pinks, yellows, and oranges.

There are not many people in the valley today, which makes wandering around a dream.

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Near the base of Lower Yosemite falls, I look up through the trees at Lost Arrow Spire. Something catches my eye. There's a person way up there, walking a rope from the spire to the wall. Two thousand, eight hundred feet below, my jaw drops.

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Despite the smoke today, this trip has been refreshing, in a way. After eating a quick breakfast and filling up my thermos with coffee, I find the best tree of the trip near the Yosemite Chapel: a sugar maple in peak color. Greens, yellows, and oranges dot the branches.

The sun peeks over a ridge and the tree comes alive with color. It's just perfect.

I sit under the branches and look up for awhile.

← DEATH VALLEYTOTALITY →

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Featured Posts

Featured
THE OTHER CAVE
February 1, 2021
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I paused, staring into the black. The world stood still, the forest quiet. My heart purred steadily from the uphill trek. The mouth of the cave beckoned. It was so dark inside, as if all the light had been swallowed up. How curious.

As I stepped into the cave, a panicked voice, deep in the animal recesses of my brain, whispered at me to back. away. SLOWLY.

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February 1, 2021
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January 22, 2020
KUMEYAAY
January 22, 2020

Drops of water splash on my forehead, waking me in the dark. Through the mesh I see a mob of dark storm clouds. Rain.

Stumbling out of the tent, I throw the rain fly on, tightening it down against bursts of wind. My watch reads 5AM. The rest of the group isn't due at the campsite for another six hours. Time for a quick adventure.

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November 4, 2019
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Yosemite Valley welcomes me with pink dogwoods and sunny skies as I arrive on a Friday in October. The air is temperate and slightly smoky from a nearby fire. My friend James pulls up as I pitch the tent at North Pines Campground. He greets me with a smile; adventures are in store.

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September 18, 2019
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Near Mount Shasta, in the northeastern corner of California, the activity of the Medicine Lake Shield Volcano has created a complex and storied landscape. Cinder cones dot the map. Glass and lava flows spill out from the ground.

A campground in the midst of this volcanic terrain is empty when I arrive late at night. The milky way passes by through the sunroof window as I fall asleep in the car.

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July 15, 2019
PAINTED CAVES
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At sundown I set out for the Carrizo. By the time my tires hit the dirt road to Selby Campground, it's well after midnight.

I take in my new surroundings. Forest fire smoke hazes out the stars in the moonless sky. Sleep comes easily in the empty campground.

In the morning, the colors deepen then wash out over the arid landscape. Shots ring out from some nearby hunters. Far away a herd of tule elk flee. Rumbling through the plain with the windows and sunroof open, I feel that wonderful remoteness.

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July 15, 2019
COSO
April 4, 2018
COSO
April 4, 2018

For the past few months, I've been fascinated by Native American rock art. My curiosity started in Nevada; during a rock climbing trip to Red Rock Canyon I saw a small abstract etching on a boulder. It piqued my interest. I was determined to see more of the mysterious etchings and paintings tucked away in secret corners of California.

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February 20, 2018
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February 20, 2018

After hours of driving through the darkness, we finally spot the sign on the side of the road:

Death Valley National Park, Homeland of the Timbisha Shoshone.

I open the sunroof and poke my head out for a look at the sky. The stars look crystalline, immeasurably detailed. After a minute, I take the wheel from Brennan so he can get a good look. These city boys are impressed. It's good to be back in nature.

Tomorrow, we'll wake up early and head to the Badwater Basin.

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February 20, 2018
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October 20, 2017
FALL SIERRA
October 20, 2017

Smoke fills the city, and Friday afternoon drags along. I sit at my desk, daydreaming, deciding if I should take an impromptu trip to the mountains. The answer is yes. It should always be yes.

Hours later I set off for the Sierra.

Read more →
October 20, 2017
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September 19, 2017
TOTALITY
September 19, 2017

On a Saturday afternoon, I cram my suit, my cameras, and my camping gear into a suitcase.

I spend less than twenty-four hours in Joshua Tree; watching my friend get married, silent disco-ing, stargazing, sleeping (barely), and hurrying back to the airport.

After a quick flight, I land in Bozeman, Montana, and meet up with my friend Brennan. From there we drive south into Idaho for a few hours, and soon enough, the whirlwind of travel comes to an end.

We set up camp on a farm in the path of totality, and check tomorrow's forecast:

Clear skies.

Read more →
September 19, 2017
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May 15, 2017
KAUA'I
May 15, 2017

Waking up somewhere completely new excites me. It's a lot easier to get out of bed when you know that a day of fresh adventure awaits you. Today, I happily wake up on the island of Kaua'i.

Stepping out on the balcony, I'm greeted by a colorful sunrise over the ocean. I wake up Megan and we head down to the beach for a walk. Megan invited me along on the Clark family vacation with her parents, Mike and Sha, and her brother Ryan. It's going to be a fun week.

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