Waking up somewhere completely new excites me. It's a lot easier to get out of bed when you know that a day of fresh adventure awaits you. Today, I happily wake up on the island of Kaua'i.
Stepping out on the balcony, I'm greeted by a colorful sunrise over the ocean. I wake up Megan and we head down to the beach for a walk. Megan invited me along on the Clark family vacation with her parents, Mike and Sha, and her brother Ryan. It's going to be a fun week.
POʻIPŪ
After breakfast, we pack up the car and drive south, to the town of Poʻipū. At Shipwreck Beach, rounded volcanic rocks click against each other in the surf as the Clarks and I set up our towels under a tree. Those of us who go for a swim get tossed around in the waves.
Megan and Sha join me on a hike along the Māhāʻulepū Heritage Trail on the cliffs east of Shipwreck beach. Waves crash against limestone pinnacles, shooting water forty feet in the air. After about a mile, Megan and Sha turn back to freshen up for dinner.
I continue on, running. The trail zig-zags past sacred archaeological sites and beaches, towards cliffs where the soil is a rusty red. Dust colors my sneakers as I make my way to Makauwaki Cave and back. It's the most scenic run I've ever been on.
Megan's friend Beth is also on the island with her family, so we meet them for drinks at a restaurant called Beach House. Large, open windows face the ocean. From the table, we see surfers carving up the late afternoon waves.
The light outside turns all sorts of wonderful colors as I sit with the two families, talking about our lives back in California. I step outside to watch the sunset. Our first full day on the island has been wonderful.
KE'E BEACH
The next morning, we pile into the rental car and drive north as far as the road goes. At the end of the road is Ke'e beach and the beginning of the Kalalau Trail, one of the most epic hikes in the world. Mike and Ryan relax at the beach as Sha, Megan, and I start up the hill, curious to explore a couple miles of the eleven mile trail.
After a quick climb of several hundred feet through beautiful plants and trees, the view opens up. Vertical terrain lines the trail, with cliffs above to the left and below to the right. From this height, the water shimmers a beautiful island teal.
We cap off the day with drinks at the St. Regis in Princeville. With a panoramic view of Hanalei Bay, we watch the sun calmly set just beyond the northernmost point of the island.
NĀ PALI COAST
After catching a small glimpse of the Nā Pali coast from the Kalalau trail, I'm very excited for today's adventure. We're taking a cruise along the Nā Pali coast on a 55 foot sailing catamaran.
The boat leaves from Port Allen, on the south shore, and curves northwest along the rugged coast. Gradually, the mountains and cliffs along the shore get taller and taller. Soon, we find ourselves staring upwards at three thousand foot peaks that rise straight from the ocean. The rock formations are unreal.
Secluded beaches pepper the coast, separated by enormous cliffs. The landscape of prehistoric, jagged ridges makes my imagination run wild.
Three hours go by like minutes. The boat crew serves a surprisingly delicious dinner of steak and jasmine rice, along with their signature drink, the "Sneaky Tiki". We linger for awhile, taking in the epic views, before the captain turns the boat around and sails back towards Port Allen.
As the sun sets behind Kaua'i's nearest island neighbor, Ni'ihau, the mood on the boat is one of pure content. Lionel Richie's "All Night Long (All Night)" plays from the sound system. I take a break from photographing to dance for a bit.
The captain steers us back to Port Allen just before dark, and the idyllic cruise comes to an end.
WAIMEA CANYON
Chickens. Everywhere we go on Kaua'i, there are chickens. After driving over an hour to the south side of the island, and ascending three thousand feet up HWY 550, I park the car at the Waimea Canyon lookout. The moment I shut off the engine and open the door, a rooster lets out a loud cock-a-doodle-dooooo!!!
We crack up, get out of the car, and stare at the massive view of the Grand Canyon of the Pacific. It's hard to believe that we're still on an island.
The trail to the top of Waipo'o Falls, a massive two-tiered waterfall, leads us downhill through the forest. After a mile, the ground falls away to the right, and the trees disappear. We trek across the red slope above the cliff, surrounded by colorful carved walls. Helicopter tours buzz by below us.
We arrive at the pools above the waterfall. I peer over the edge at the dizzying drop. Water flings itself off the cliff, undaunted.
After the uphill hike back to the car, we're all starving. In Waimea, we devour Kalua pork hot dogs from a popular food truck.
FLIGHT
On our last full day of the vacation, Megan and I drive to Lihue airport for one final adventure. I've booked us a private flight tour around the island in a small Cessna. Megan is a bit nervous, but excited for her first flight in a small plane.
Our pilot, Doug, greets us with a smile on the tarmac and helps us settle in. We put on headsets so that we can communicate over the engine noise. Gentle Hawaiian music plays as we taxi and take off. Within seconds, the view is incredible.
After five days exploring the island, it's interesting to see Kaua'i from above. Familiar places that we've seen from the ground take on a new dimension from the air. We're also treated to new sights, such as the Kaua'i Coffee Company farm, and the iconic waterfall from Jurassic Park.
After about an hour of flying, Doug steers us inland towards Kawaikini, the summit of Mount Wai'ale'ale. The extinct shield volcano rises 5,243 feet from the ocean, its peak in the clouds.
Valleys coated in green drop thousands of feet from the summit plateau. Countless small waterfalls cut deep runnels in the steep wall. Our tiny Cessna is dwarfed by the ancient mountain.
Later, the Clarks and I head to Duke's for our last dinner on Kaua'i. We're joined by my friend from college, Caitlin. She lives on the island now, working for a scuba company. Twilight fades in Nawiliwili Bay as we eat fresh fish and catch up for the first time in years.
It's been an incredible trip. We recount our adventures to Caitlin, and ask her about life on the island. She tells us stories of the hidden gems that she's discovered in her time here; places we will have to come back and see.
We fly out the following morning. I spend the flight looking through my photographs, wishing I was back on the island.
Footnotes:
Thank you to Megan & the Clark family for taking me along on this fantastic vacation.